The Phoenician - just ok

A new Lebanese restaurant opened in Richmond a couple of months ago.  Being Lebanese myself, I was very excited to hear the news.  I have eaten at the restaurant, which is housed in the old La Casita on Broad St., two times.  The first time, my girlfriend and I shared several different mezza - kibbi, fatayer cheese, fatayer spinach, granny's eggplants, and the babagannouge.  When I say I was disappointed, I don't mean that the food was bad, except the fatayer cheese, that was not good - was definitely ordered, not gourmet.

I simply felt like the food lacked some sort of 'touch'.  That's an awfully ambiguous term, but that's the only way I can explain it.  Now, I know there are not that many Lebanese people in Richmond, but I don't think that the Lebanese food has reached the point of Italian food, where we Americans feel comfortable having a white teenager serves 'gourmet' rigatoni, are we? 

Finally, why is it that so many Lebanese restaurants are afraid to sell kibbi nayeh (raw lamb or beef).  Dumb question you might say?  Of all the Mediterranean restaurants around that continue to serve kibbi nayeh, I don't hear news reports of people dying because of bad meat.  For example here is a sample of a menu from a Lebanese restaurant in London:

30 Kibbeh Nayeh Raw Lamb blended with Crushed Wheat and Spices £5.50
31 Habra Nayeh Diced Fresh Raw Lamb served with Spices £6.00
32 Kafta Nayeh Raw Lamb minced with Onion, Spices and Parsley £6.00
33 Fatayel Nayeh Raw Lamb Fillet cut very fine and served with Spices £6.00
34 Sowda Nayeh Fresh Raw Lamb Liver finely cut and served with Spices £6.00

Ok, so what the hell is my point, huh?  Well, I'm extremely happy that there is another Lebanese restaurant in Richmond.  I simply wish it was more of a shocker.  Also, part of that 'touch' I mentioned may have nothing to do with the food itself, it may have something to do with aesthetics, like the car dealership across the street, all of the way down to the sign outside that, no matter what is written on it, screams "Mexican Restaurant". 

Hey, I know I sound like a wining son of a bitch, and this all sounds bad, but I'll go back to The Phoenician.  I don't think anything I have said is to simply trash the place, or even the food - I see it as constructive criticism, maybe advice for the next Richmond Restaurateur.  The Phoenician is a needed stepping stone to a gourmet Lebanese restaurant in Richmond.

Feel free to tear me apart.

Comments

[RVA Foodie]

I've been to the Phoenician a few times now and I've only had one thing that was disappointing: Granny's Eggplants. They were clearly canned. We took a bite and pulled at the rubbery veggie, and then slid the plate to the edge of the table. The server came over, asked about the dish, and quickly replaced it with baba ghanouj (which was very good).

I too would like to see more middle eastern food in Richmond and so I try to mention the stuff on my blog whenever I can, but the Phoenician is a nice addition in the meantime. Have you tried the restaurant "Mezze" at Harrison and Main?

[Existential Punk]

I just ate there for the first time last night. i am not Lebanese but i thoroughly enjoyed the food. As i enjoyed the ambience inside. The issue i had was having a Hispanic man serve us. I am not being racist, but that is what reminded me of being in the old Mexican restaurant. Of course, he has every right to work there and the owner/manager has every right to hire who he/she wants. I don't begrudge them that. MAy be it would not have bothered me if the previous restaurant had not been Mexican food.